Roses are pruned in late winter or early spring, once the hard frosts have passed. How much you cut depends on the type of rose: hard for bush and repeat-flowering roses, lightly for climbers and old garden roses. With clean, sharp tools, a few simple steps are enough to keep the shrub healthy and flowering well.
When to prune roses in French-speaking Switzerland
The main pruning takes place between late winter and early spring. The idea is to prune when the worst of the cold is behind you, but before growth has got going. Pruning too early exposes young shoots to a frost; pruning too late tires the plant needlessly, as it has already spent energy getting started.
A classic marker that works everywhere: forsythia in flower. When its yellow blooms open, it is generally time to get the secateurs out. This marker follows the local climate, which is better than a fixed date.
The calendar shifts with altitude: later in the mountains and the Jura than by the lake. Look at the buds (the small swellings on the stems): once they start to swell, you can begin.
Two exceptions to remember:
- old garden roses that flower only once are pruned lightly just after flowering;
- dead or diseased wood can be removed at any time of the year.
The basic steps
Whatever the rose, the cutting method stays the same.
- Prepare your tools. Sharp, clean secateurs: a clean cut heals quickly, while a crushed cut lets disease in. A thick glove is useful.
- Remove dead wood first, along with damaged or diseased stems, back to healthy wood (pale pith).
- Take out branches that cross or grow towards the centre, to open up the bush. An open centre dries better after rain.
- Cut at an angle, just above a bud facing outwards. The slope sheds water, and the new stem grows away from the centre instead of crowding it.
- Clear away the prunings, especially if they are diseased, rather than leaving them at the base.
If you have many shrubs to tackle, you will find similar pointers on our page about hedge trimming, since the principle of a clean cut and good airflow also applies to flowering hedges.
Adapting the pruning to the type of rose
| Type of rose | Pruning |
|---|---|
| Bush and repeat-flowering | Harder pruning, to 3 to 5 buds, at the end of winter |
| Climbers | Keep the long main branches, shorten the laterals |
| Old non-repeating | Light pruning, just after flowering |
| Ground cover | Maintenance pruning: dead wood, awkward branches, reshaping |
Bush and repeat-flowering roses
These roses flower on the current year’s growth. Harder pruning, to 3 to 5 buds, encourages vigorous stems and repeated flowering. Preferably keep a few well-spaced main branches.
Climbers
Here, you do not cut everything back. The long framework branches are kept and tied in a more horizontal position, which encourages flowering. Shorten the lateral shoots, which carry the flowers, and remove dead wood.
Old garden roses and ground cover roses
Old roses that flower only once keep most of their framework: light pruning after flowering is enough. Ground cover roses mainly need tidying and reshaping.
Care through the season
Good pruning does not replace regular follow-up.
- Remove spent flowers: this stops the plant exhausting its reserves producing hips and encourages repeat-flowering roses to bloom again.
- Watch for powdery mildew (white coating on the leaves) and black spot (dark spots, leaf drop). Good airflow in the bush and clearing affected leaves limit their spread; our guide on clearing autumn leaves covers the latter in detail.
- Mulch the base: mulch retains moisture, limits weeds and protects the roots from temperature swings.
These steps fit naturally into regular garden maintenance. If you plan to plant new roses, think about it from the garden creation stage: a bright, airy spot greatly reduces disease problems.
By region: lake, plain, mountain
The climate shifts the calendar more than it changes the method.
- Lake Geneva and the other lakes: winters are milder and growth restarts early. Late-winter pruning can be done earlier there than elsewhere. In the Geneva area, roses often start among the first.
- Plateau and plain: follow the forsythia. Around Neuchâtel, the lake softens the climate, but late frosts remain possible: wait until they have gone.
- Valais: winters are dry and sunny, and spring comes quickly on the valley floor. Around Sierre, keep an eye on watering in summer, as heat and drought put roses under strain.
- Jura and Pre-Alps, altitude: pruning is done later, once snow and frost have passed. At altitude, protect the base by earthing it up before winter (a mound of soil or compost around the base). Our guide on mountain gardening gives further pointers.
Doing it yourself or hiring someone
Pruning a few roses in a home garden is within reach of a private owner: you need good secateurs, a little method and the calendar above. Common mistakes (a badly placed cut, pruning at the wrong time) can usually be put right from one season to the next.
A professional is called for when the roses are numerous, very tall or trained on a façade or pergola, when the plants are old and need deep renovation, or when you simply lack the time. SOS Jardin passes your request to a gardener in your region, who contacts you and provides a free, no-obligation quote: you can request a quote by describing your garden.
Frequently asked questions
When should roses be pruned?
The main pruning is done in late winter or early spring, when the hard frosts have passed. Forsythia in flower is a good marker. In the Jura and at altitude, wait longer than by the lake.
How do you prune a bush or repeat-flowering rose?
Remove dead wood and crossing branches, then shorten the healthy stems to 3 to 5 buds. Cut at an angle, just above a bud facing outwards. This cut gives an airy bush and encourages flowering.
Do climbing roses need pruning?
Yes, but more lightly. Keep the long main branches, tie them in preferably horizontally and shorten the lateral shoots. Also remove dead wood to keep the whole plant healthy.
What can be done about powdery mildew and black spot?
Open up the bush with correct pruning, remove affected leaves and avoid leaving debris at the base. Watch for the first signs from spring. If the problem is established or returns every year, ask a gardener for advice.
Do roses need protecting in winter?
At altitude and in cold areas, yes: earthing up the base with soil or compost protects the base of the plant from frost. By the lake, the milder climate makes this precaution less necessary, except in a harsh winter.