A good dog-proof fence is chosen first and foremost according to the dog: its size, and how it jumps, climbs or digs. Rigid welded mesh, a suitable height, a fence base anchored in the ground and a gate that closes by itself cover most situations. Before ordering anything, check with your commune about the rules that apply along property boundaries.

Observe your dog before choosing the fence

Two dogs of the same size will not test a fence in the same way. Before talking about materials, ask yourself a few simple questions:

  • Does the dog jump? A sporty or athletic dog clears with ease what would stop a calm one. The height should be set for the most agile dog in the household, not the best behaved.
  • Does it climb? Some dogs use a support: a woodpile, a compost bin, a shed, a bench or a low wall against the fence. These footholds need to be cleared along the boundary.
  • Does it dig? A dog that digs is looking for a way under the fence, often at the corners or near the gate.
  • Does it bark at passers-by? A fully see-through fence exposes the dog to everything that moves on the pavement or next door, which keeps the barking going.
  • Is it small? A puppy or small dog will squeeze through mesh that a large dog would never think of testing.

Bear in mind, too, that dogs change: a puppy grows, an older dog jumps less. A fence designed for the adult size and real temperament of your dog avoids having to start again in two years.

Height, mesh and materials

The height depends on the size and energy of the dog. The bigger and sportier the dog, the higher the fence needs to be. No single height suits every dog; for a dog that jumps, it is better to aim higher than strictly necessary.

Welded mesh or flexible wire netting

Rigid welded mesh is generally the best choice for a dog: it does not warp, does not bend under pressure and does not slacken with time. Flexible wire netting eventually sags between the posts and leaves gaps, especially if the dog leans on it or pushes it with its nose. To find out more about the options, see our page on fencing and metal trellis.

The mesh

The mesh size matters as much as the height:

  • for a small dog or puppy, a tight mesh that it can neither squeeze through nor get its head stuck in;
  • for a large dog, a wider mesh is fine, provided the structure is solid;
  • the bottom of the fence can have a finer mesh than the rest if you have animals of different sizes.

What to avoid

  • sharp points, cut wire ends left raw and wires stretched at nose height, which cause injuries;
  • barbed wire and any cutting device;
  • spaced timber slats in which a dog can catch a paw or a collar;
  • makeshift fences built from salvaged materials with sharp edges.

A safe fence can be checked by running your hand along its whole length: nothing should snag, prick or stick out.

Stopping the dog from digging or getting underneath

For a dog that digs, the weak point is the base of the fence. Several solutions exist, sometimes combined:

  1. Bury the wire netting: extend the mesh below ground level, so that any attempt at digging runs into metal.
  2. Lay a concrete edging at the foot of the fence, forming a continuous and durable obstacle.
  3. Fill in holes that have already been started, otherwise the dog will always go back to the same spot.
  4. Pay attention to the corners and the bottom of the gate, where the ground is most often attacked.
  5. Offer a digging corner: a small area of sand or loose soil where the dog is allowed to scratch sometimes diverts its energy from the boundaries.

The most effective approach is still to plan these measures from the outset: reworking the base of an existing fence takes longer than building it into the job.

Gate and entrance: the sensitive point

Most escapes happen through the gate, not through the fence. A few principles:

  • a self-closing gate shuts by itself, even when your arms are full or your mind is elsewhere;
  • a lock or latch that the dog cannot operate with its nose or paw;
  • a small gap between the bottom of the gate and the ground, so that the dog cannot slip underneath;
  • a height and mesh identical to those of the fence, with no weaker area.

If you regularly receive deliveries or visitors, a small airlock, meaning two gates in succession, offers extra security. For choosing and installing one, see the gate and entrance page.

Privacy and barking: backing the fence with a hedge

A see-through fence lets the dog see every passer-by, every bicycle, every other dog, and that is often what sets off the barking. Backing the mesh with a hedge brings two things: privacy for you, and a visual screen that calms the dog by limiting stimulation.

The hedge does not replace the fence while it grows: the mesh acts as the barrier, and the hedge develops in front of or behind it. A well-trimmed hedge is also more pleasant for the neighbours. For upkeep, see hedge trimming. Take care to choose plants that are not dangerous to animals: if in doubt, ask the professional or a vet for advice.

Fences and neighbours: check first

The permitted height and materials along a property boundary are set by communal regulations and, sometimes, by a neighbourhood plan. These rules vary from one commune to another. Before putting up a fence, it is therefore wise to:

  • contact the building department of your commune;
  • ask whether a permit or notification is needed for your project;
  • check the exact position of the property boundary;
  • talk to your neighbours, which avoids a lot of disputes later on.

A fence installed without checking may have to be altered or moved. A request made beforehand is quick and spares you this unpleasant surprise.

By region: lakeside, plain, mountain

The terrain and climate influence the choice of fence.

  • Lake Geneva and other lakeshores: gently sloping gardens, often in dense residential areas, call for careful attention to privacy and compliance with precise communal regulations. Gardens in Carouge or Morges illustrate this case: tight plots, close neighbours, well-defined boundaries.
  • Plateau and plain: flat ground makes it easier to install rigid mesh over long distances. The soil, sometimes heavy and clayey, means the posts need to be well anchored.
  • Valais: terraced or sloping plots require the fence to be adapted to the terrain, in steps, and checked to make sure the base stays closed on changes of level.
  • Jura and Pre-Alps: snow and frost put stress on posts and fixings. At altitude, a robust structure anchored deep in the ground is preferable, along with a gate that does not jam in freezing weather. In the Bulle area, as in other mid-altitude communes, winter performance matters as much as height.

On sloping ground, the base of the fence rarely follows the soil: that is where the dog will one day find a gap to get through. A professional knows how to close these gaps neatly.

Doing it yourself or hiring a professional

A homeowner can perfectly well install a short section of mesh, add buried wire netting at the foot of an existing fence or clear the footholds along the boundary. Simple jobs, on flat ground and over a short length, are within reach.

A professional becomes necessary once the fence is long, the ground is sloping, foundations or a concrete edging need to be poured, or the dog is particularly gifted at escaping. The anchoring of the posts, the alignment and the closing of the fence base are decided to within a few centimetres.

SOS Jardin is a matching service: you describe your project, and the request is passed on to a gardener or landscape gardener in your region, who gets back to you and prepares a free, no-obligation quote. You can request a quote and mention the size of your dog and its habits.

If you are also landscaping other areas, our guides on the garden shed and on clearing autumn leaves may help round out your plans. Find all topics in the garden advice section.

Frequently asked questions

What height of fence does a dog need?

It depends on the size, agility and character of your dog. A calm, small dog will be fine with a low fence, whereas a jumper or sporty dog needs more height. If in doubt, go higher, while respecting your commune’s regulations.

What should I do if my dog digs under the fence?

Bury the bottom of the mesh or lay a concrete edging at the foot of the fence, then fill in the holes already dug. Keep a close eye on the corners and the area under the gate. Offering a corner of loose soil where it can dig also helps divert the habit.

Flexible wire netting or welded mesh: which should I choose?

Rigid welded mesh is generally preferable: it does not sag and withstands pushing better. Flexible netting slackens over time and leaves gaps. For a small dog, also check that the mesh is tight enough.

Do I need a permit to put up a fence?

It depends on your commune. The height and materials along a property boundary are governed by communal regulations and sometimes by a neighbourhood plan. A call to the building department before the work will tell you what applies where you live.

How can I calm the barking when my dog sees passers-by?

Limit what it can see from the garden. Backing the fence with a hedge or a planted screen reduces stimulation and also gives you privacy. If the barking persists, a dog trainer will be able to give you useful advice.

Request your free quote

Describe your project: the quote request is free and commits you to nothing.